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HOW TO PACKAGE FOR INTERNATIONAL AND DOMESTIC TRADES
Some ideas from someone who has gotten lots of packages across the wide blue Pacific Ocean
by Nigel Percy (npercy@gina.science.adelaide.edu.au)
 
 

Yep that's right I'm an Australian and I've had numerous packages from the US, that have ended up in many different conditions, so how do you pack your little goddies? Well it all depends on what they are (loose, carded or boxed) and the condition that the customer/trader wants them in (will they open them, or are they a MOC collector?). I try to keep packages light as to reduce shipping costs. From my memory, every pound costs more in the US.

LOOSE FIGURES

Loose figures are the easiest things to package. A padded envelope is enough for sending these, unless they have parts that may break off easily (ala Scourge from Spawn series 7, Maleboglia), I would still recommend a small box for maximal safety. Make sure all accessories that have been talked about (if you say its complete, that means all accessories), are put into a zip loc bag (doesn't have to be with the figure, but I usually do) so they dont get lost in transit. I usually put the figure and the accessories into one ziploc bag and squeeze the air out, and then put that bag in another and lock it up with some air inside to cushion the figure. Then I put this figure into a small box that is packed up with plastic or foam peanuts.

CARDED FIGURES

You can either do this the right way, or make a real mess of it. The most important thing about paking up figures that are to arrive in a MOC condition is a good box. I use double corregated boxes when ever I can, usually the case boxes figures arrive in are good enough. If you can push the side of the box in relatively easily (depends on your strength!) dont use it for MOC packaging. Also another method of packing which will cost more in shipping, but recommended to me by a dealer was to pack the figures in one box (as below) and then put that box in another that was packed full of foam peanuts. This allows for one box to be damaged, with the inside one being unscathed, but of course this is larger and heavier. So how do you pack the first box? Well I usually put bubble wrap around the figures, to try and protect the bubble. If there is more than one, place them so the bubbles fit together and then pack some foam or plastic bags in the space between the bubbles so the cards don't get bent into each other (put two Star Wars figures and you know what I mean). I then put bubble wrap around both figures. I then pack this into the box with plastic bags along the bottom, and then a single layer of foam peanuts. I then place foam peanuts around the figure and over the top, and seal up the box with a good packing tape, avaliable at the supermarket.

BOXED FIGURES

Boxed figures can be a pain also. Why? Well, 2 reasons. The first is the size is much larger thus more area to be damaged, the second is they have plastic windows which are really easily damaged (check out the windows on boxed figures at TRU for example). So how do I do these? Well, I find a strong box. The stronger the better, and usually with a couple of centimeters in front of any window areas on the box. The cardboard areas on the box are less easily damaged so I don't worry about these as much. I then pack the plastic and foam peanuts (if I have them) across the bottom of the box. I then place foam rubber in front of the window and especially if the window has a fold in it (like the top of the Death Star Escape packs), and then place foam peanuts around the box, and then foam peanuts across the box. I always try to line the box with plastic bags.

So what if I dont have foam peanuts? Well I have had plastic bags used which have provided just as good (possibly better) packaging as anything else. I have also heard that newspaper can be used, but be careful using newspaper, because newsprint rubs off easily so it could rub off onto the figures. I have also heard that there are protectors for carded figures which are rather cheap, and these may be a good thing for packing MOC figures, again depending on cost. If anyone has anything to add, please contact me at npercy@gina.adelaide.edu.au. I'd be happy to hear any comments.

 
 
 
 
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